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32 pick up on scimitar chassis

16K views 45 replies 23 participants last post by  rodbuilder 
#1 · (Edited)
Have been working on this since last September, another club member changed his mind about building a Scimitar rod so as I had a body available and I am unable to resist another project.

It is the same ex Bay area rods body that Hardy county used to sell so is not an accurate replica.

I unchopped the body 2" and took the slant out of the windscreen ( pics form last build as I did not take any this time)









Following pics are the actual body





Bent some channel to make guttering



After lots of filling and sanding



Plan is to fit a 1.8 zetec engine with Lexus is 200 6 speed gearbox on an unmodified chassis





Modify some 32 wings to make a full fendered rod













Made some false horns and a moulding to cover the steel plate



Out riggers are too far forward so I modified the fenders to reduce the visual impact using a quick skirt moulding from my 34 fenders





Frame work for the shortened running boards



Lengthen the bed to cover the rear end of the chassis





Widen the tailgate so the rear fenders sit right on the wheels without widening them.





Bulkhead mounted brakes with Audi pedals box and servo I had in the shed



Home made dash using 5" gauges



Stainless tank mounted under the bed behind cab



Prepping the fenders for paint this weekend.

 
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28
#7 ·
Great project, you are creating something special without spending a fortune, just good old hotrodding ingenuity.
Please keep the updates and pics coming
 
#16 · (Edited)
The car will qualify for a rebody as the chassis is un altered and I am using original axles, suspension and steering = 10 points. When I MOT the finished car I will get the garage to write me a letter to verify the engine capacity and ID number along with stating the body has been changed which I will send off with documents. It will keep the original reg number but be described how I choose.

As with all modern boxes it has a pulse generator for the speedo the output is universal with just a variation in pulses per mile, I will be using Dolphin gauges which have a calibration button, you simply press at the start and after 1 mile press again and it is all done. Some gearboxes like the Volvo ones I use for flathead conversions do not have one so an ABS sensor targeted at the prop shaft bolts will do the same.
 
#20 ·
I am planning to use the whole set up, that is why I am using the Focus column with the inbuilt key reader.
 
#21 ·
that sounds nice and easy The car will qualify for a rebody as the chassis is un altered and I am using original axles, suspension and steering = 10 points. When I MOT the finished car I will get the garage to write me a letter to verify the engine capacity and ID number along with stating the body has been changed which I will send off with documents. It will keep the original reg number but be described how I choose.
do you have to send before and after pictures front back and sides showing number plate etc with documents
interested to know from someone who has done a few rebodies
cheers
 
#22 ·
it's been suggested on here by folks who know much more than me to send the absolute minimum, both pics and info. just enough to give 'them' what they need and no more. any more can easily confuse them and give them more to see and find fault with. neil.
 
#23 ·
The last re body reg I did was 4 years ago which required a photo of the rolling chassis ( has now been said that the number plate should be showing), front and rear finished photo's with numberplates fitted, I took them in the MOT bay at the time of the test.

This was before SGS was appointed as the inspection body so the last two I did were just acceped without inspection. Anybody's guess if you get selected but doing it right should cause no problems. The V5C needs to show historic before you start by the way.

Rich
 
#29 · (Edited)
Thanks for the positive comments and likes.

A few of the smaller jobs, bobbed the rear fenders by about 6"



Made a lower side panel with location holes for the upper one, complicated shape to clear the fenders, steel frame with fibreglass panel I stuck on with polyester bonding paste.





Upper panel made the same way showing lugs for side opening bonnet.





Frame for bonnet in 25 x 8mm strip and home made hinge.



Found an aluminium radiator and fan assembly for Honda Civic at a very good price on E bay so made lower mounting holes, for those that do not know you cannot solid mount a alloy rad as with flexing it will crack so I have used tube with a piece of heater hose inside.







Infill panel to cover 4 bar mount



Made my own headlamp bar from stainless tube.



Picture showing how I covered the rack with some mouldings added to the wings.



Put a bit of paint on to see if I was going to like it in two tone



 
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